La Union Photodiary: Part 2

Friday, January 23, 2015

Chasing waves...

Stoked...that ineffable feeling of euphoria when you're able to catch a good wave and successfully coast through it.

My love affair with surfing began in 2008. I actually panicked and chickened out during my very first surf session because the waves were just too wild and choppy and I had to beg the surf instructor to take me back to shore for fear of being eaten whole by the sea (okay, this might be quite an exaggeration). Suffice to say, my first attempt at surfing was a complete failure. I thought I'd never try surfing again after that dreadful experience but after a couple of weeks, I decided to go back to La Union, determined more than ever to push myself and finally learn how to surf. On my second visit, I was welcomed by a calm sea with beautiful sets of baby waves which made surfing less intimidating than I thought it would be the second time around. After a dozen hiccups, I was finally able to stand on the board...and in those few seconds of coasting through the water, I finally knew what "stoked" meant and felt like...and it was the best feeling ever.

Mind you, I'm no pro-surfer. I can only manage to take on baby waves. Whenever I would go out to face the bigger sets, I would have to ask someone (a friend or an instructor) to help me push through the waves. So my goal for this year is to be able to ride bigger waves on my own and learn how to use a short board.

Wish me luck!


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